By 8am when we commenced our hike from La Cedral the rain had already started to trickle. GoreTex, ponchos, fast drying synthetic fibers, SmartWool - we were two well prepared hikers intent on staying dry. Within the hour we were two soaked hikers with very expensive gear. The previous day when Daniel explained that we would walk along a river basin, a cuenca, I assumed we would walk along side it not actually through it. As the rain pounded us we had to make our way up the rocky river basin as ankle deep water gushed down. Breaks in the water only meant we had to deal with slippery rocks protruding from the ground and messy mud banks.
For over an hour I gingerly stepped from one slightly emerged rock to another diligently determined to avoid wetting my feet. Catherine and Daniel trekked 20m in front of me and I attributed their speed to their longer strides and lean fit frames. I lumbered on until Catherine turned around to wait for me and noticed my deliberate steps.
"Are your shoes still dry?" with an intended hint of disdain.
I proudly responded, "Yes, indeed they are."
"You must be kidding me! We do not have time for dry feet! Pick up the pace!"
Within minutes I reluctantly dipped my feet in the gushing stream of cold water. Soon after mud. My pace improved but my morale was never quite the same.
After two hours of walking we reached a river too high to cross on foot. A week´s worth of persistent rain swelled the river and mightily washed away the footbridge. Luckily, Daniel's (girl)friend Ana was trailing us on horseback and we were able to cross the river one at a time on the poor horse. After our river crossing and with the rain still pounding us, Daniel suggested that the conditions were not in our favor and that we should consider alternative options because he did not think that we would make it to the laguna. It was already 10:30am and he anticipated another eight to nine hours of uphill hiking at our precarious pace. He suggested that we stay at the Pastora which we had just reached and that he would hike up to the laguna to meet up with Ana who was on horseback.
Insistent on making it, Catherine firmly instructed me to pick up the pace and she practically started sprinting up the cuenca. She suspected that Daniel wanted to ditch us to have a romantic rendezvous with Ana at the laguna. I was not happy about a change of plans either, but I seriously doubted that he was conjuring sexy ideas for a night at 4 Celsius at 4000m. Nonetheless, I found myself feebly explaining to Daniel that we would hike on and then foolishly trying to keep Catherine's alpha pace uphill.
"Come on Joc, faster!"
Unfortunately, within 30 minutes I knew that I would not make it to the laguna. I was beat and we still had 8 hours to go. Uphill. Wet. Cold.
"Pick up the pace!"
As Catherine scolded my slowness I reticently refrained knowing that she too would succumb to fatigue and the elements. Catherine is a kick ass hiker in tremendous shape but the conditions were totally demoralizing.
"Joc, I think we'll have to admit that we won't get to the laguna."
"Really? You're probably right," I innocently countered.
Luckily, Daniel suggested his most promising idea: we would hike another 5 hours uphill to a finca owned by local farmers he knew, stay the night, and in the morning we would get up at 5am and hike the final 2 hours uphill to the laguna. All on board, we trekked on.
Those 5 hours kicked our ass. The last 800m alone took us 30 minutes as we labored through steep and slippery mounds of mud. Each step uphill exposed us to the chilly cold of higher elevation. I am surprised I did not break down in tears of defeat because my body ached immensely. I lost circulation in my hands and when we finally made it to the finca, Botero would have appreciated the pudgy red stubs on my hands.
Laura and Juan Camilo, 5 year old twin ambassadors of the finca family greeted us with huge smiles and curious delight. We quickly peeled off the soaked gear and layered on every other piece of clothing we packed. Immediately we were graciously offered aguapanela (a hot water drink flavored with a type of molasses), homemade cheese (which they made on the farm each day and sold at the market in town), coffee and much desire seating next to the stove that doubles as the family heater.
Amidst the poverty and simplicity of the finca, the family's warmth and love towards one another was obvious. We shared stories about the US, Colombia, life in the city, life on a farm. In keeping with finca routine we were all in bed by 7pm.
Sans discussion, we all clearly understood that there would be no 5am walk to the laguna.
We awoke to gorgeous blue skies that revealed beautifully lush green mountains around us.
The blue sky debut was short lived. After a joyful morning of kid games with Juan Camilo and Laura, we started our 10am return hike in down pour mightier than the previous day. Our pained bodies did not make it down until 5pm. The only true motivation was the warm shower and warm bed awaiting us in the hotel.
Unfortunate for us, rainy season has arrived.
More pictures at -
Medellin: http://juicycat.smugmug.com/gallery/4412998_i5GWw#259253579
Parque Ucumari: http://juicycat.smugmug.com/gallery/4413116_frWpA#259258407
Salento: http://juicycat.smugmug.com/gallery/4417463_ybYrc#259543902
El Mercado de Silvia: http://juicycat.smugmug.com/gallery/4417589_MK5Uq#259550410
