Tomorrow morning we finally leave La Paz.
We will ride mountain bikes down the world's most dangerous road from 4700m to 1200m in just a few hours. That means that we go from the mountains of the Cordillera Real to the jungle in las Yungas.
We're both happy to get to our next destination even if we will likely not have a place to stay. Our next village, Coroico, is having a huge party for the next few days and hotels have been booked solid for weeks. We may have to share a bed with a local or sleep in the plaza with drunks. Catherine seems to think that we are in for an adventure. I'm a bit more skeptical but of course I follow her lead.
October 19, 2007
October 15, 2007
Some Peace in La Paz
Approaching La Paz we weren't disappointed with the views of the city and its surroundings. La Paz is actually shaped like a huge bowl. El Alto, a sprawling "city" of 650,000 regarded as the Aymara capital of the world, is the rim of the bowl, and the city center, with a population of 900,000, is at the bottom of the bowl. Hugging the bowl are 6000m peaks that loom over the city. On the bus you approach from El Alto and after rounding a few corners you see into the bowl's bottom - winding streets, highrises clinging to cliffs and an endless array of buildings. The initial views of the city were spectacular.
I plastered my face to the bus window and I felt that I didn't have enough time to take in the spectacle. I didn't want the fresh images to fade. Things happen so quickly here that I find it essential to stop mental time and attempt to truly capture moments. A few days later and already subsequent images, smells, sounds, and experiences quickly transplant "old" ones.
La Paz has been a wonderful city to explore. Not even a million people make up the city center and yet the city bustles with life from early morning to late night. Tonight I walked home at 11pm and was quite surprised to see market hawkers still selling their products, young lovers embracing in the small plaza and full collectivos transporting people to and fro.
Here we've had the oppurtunity to enjoy ''luxuries'' only big citites can offer. We found whole grain wheat bread and brie and have indulged in ''fancy'' lunches all week. We also found yummy apple pie and apple cider and feasted on our own little fall treat on the steps of a bougi highrise. We went to the movies and escaped from the hurried streets for two hours. The movie was American, it sucked, and we laughed at its absurdities. When the movie ended we each had the fleeting thought that we would leave the theater and walk to our apartment...in Philadelphia. Bittersweetly we laughed knowing we would spill onto the streets of La Paz heading to yet another temporary abode.
We're kind of stuck here. We want to head north to the heat of the jungle but each evening we realize that we have yet to plan our departure. I don't know what is keeping us put. Maybe it's the double bed we managed to secure at our hostel or it's the organic chocolate we found. The city is poor, rundown and chaotic but I have found immense richness and possibility here. I'm trying to decide if it's my favorite place we have visited.
I plastered my face to the bus window and I felt that I didn't have enough time to take in the spectacle. I didn't want the fresh images to fade. Things happen so quickly here that I find it essential to stop mental time and attempt to truly capture moments. A few days later and already subsequent images, smells, sounds, and experiences quickly transplant "old" ones.
La Paz has been a wonderful city to explore. Not even a million people make up the city center and yet the city bustles with life from early morning to late night. Tonight I walked home at 11pm and was quite surprised to see market hawkers still selling their products, young lovers embracing in the small plaza and full collectivos transporting people to and fro.
Here we've had the oppurtunity to enjoy ''luxuries'' only big citites can offer. We found whole grain wheat bread and brie and have indulged in ''fancy'' lunches all week. We also found yummy apple pie and apple cider and feasted on our own little fall treat on the steps of a bougi highrise. We went to the movies and escaped from the hurried streets for two hours. The movie was American, it sucked, and we laughed at its absurdities. When the movie ended we each had the fleeting thought that we would leave the theater and walk to our apartment...in Philadelphia. Bittersweetly we laughed knowing we would spill onto the streets of La Paz heading to yet another temporary abode.
We're kind of stuck here. We want to head north to the heat of the jungle but each evening we realize that we have yet to plan our departure. I don't know what is keeping us put. Maybe it's the double bed we managed to secure at our hostel or it's the organic chocolate we found. The city is poor, rundown and chaotic but I have found immense richness and possibility here. I'm trying to decide if it's my favorite place we have visited.
More importantly - GO BOLIVIA!
We attended our first Latin American futbol match yesterday afternoon and we had a BLAST! Bolivia tied Colombia 0-0 in the World Cup qualifier match. We got tickets for only 50 bolivianos...that's less than $7.
I was also able to finally upload pics of our visit to Lago Titicaca. Check out our picture site to see the many new galleries I created.
October 14, 2007
"Caramelos!"
It is now my turn to be the patient and Catherine's turn to play doctor.
I awoke yesterday morning with persistent runs, a burnt face and a rash over my eyes resembling the flesh eating plague. For six weeks I have been totally healthy. Suddenly I'm bombarded with as many ailments as a 3rd world country. It didn't help that at 5am when I awoke to go to the bathroom I discovered we had run out of toilet paper - a pleasant pink hue here in Bolivia. I "luckily" found some of Catherine's dirty snot tissues. We also have no moisturizer for my burnt face. Everything here is loaded with perfumes and chemicals. For relief I've had to spread lip balm all over my face. As for the flesh eating plague, well, if it doesn't go away, I love you all.
Cusco - Puno - Islas Flotantes - Isla Amantani - Isla Taquile - Puno - Yungayo (Bolivian border) - Copacabana - Isla del Sol - Copacabana - La Paz
Today we head to La Paz after a very busy and beautiful week exploring Lake Titicaca. We were pleasantly surprised at the magnitude, diversity and beauty of the lake. I half expected it to be a dumping ground of sludge and brown waters for both Peru and Bolivia. Instead the lake's crystal blue and turquoise waters shimmer in the intense sunlight at 4000m (the highest lake in the world). Adding to the color spectacle are the vivid colors of the clothing worn by the men and women of the various islands. The bright pinks, greens, yellows and reds all sit on the bright blues of the water and sky. 6000m mountain peaks on the horizon add to the visual show. On many occasions we found ourselves whiling away hours just observing the scenery and the people.
Isla del Sol in Bolivia was the definite highlight of our discovery of Lake Titicaca. Though the island is extremely peaceful, we encountered much activity during our stay. We met a large group of young Bolivianos studying to be in the tourism industry. They were very enthusiastic about their studies and we spent hours talking about culture, travel and language. Meeting them was absolutely great. The following day on our hike to the northern part of the island we took a break from the sun's harshness by resting on a secluded beach. While Catherine napped a group of about ten Boliviano kids no older than five descended upon us demanding, "Caramelos!" Although I kindly told them I had no caramelos and that I wouldn't give them any candy they encircled us and pressed on with their demands for caramelos. The leader of the Bolivian Lord of the Flies, with beady little eyes and rotten front teeth spotted a package of crackers in my day pack. He reached for them and insisted, "Give them to me. I want them!" I sternly told him not to touch my bag and to get away from us. Catherine awoke and noticed all of the kids around us. I explained their demands for caramelos and that started what has become the one woman brigade to save the teeth of Bolivia's sugar-addicted children. In her beginner Spanish she scolded all of them on their demands for candy. "Caramelos son muy malos! Son muy malos para tu dientes!" We got up and left. The Lord of the Flies ran to the other side of the beach, took off their clothes, and jumped in the lake. Latin Piggy hasn't been heard from since.
We have worked on a thorough speech to give the children. Every kid we have met since then requesting caramelos has been met with very active resistance on Catherine's part.
I'll update pics when we get to La Paz.
Happy 30th Birthday to Efrain!! We love you!!
I awoke yesterday morning with persistent runs, a burnt face and a rash over my eyes resembling the flesh eating plague. For six weeks I have been totally healthy. Suddenly I'm bombarded with as many ailments as a 3rd world country. It didn't help that at 5am when I awoke to go to the bathroom I discovered we had run out of toilet paper - a pleasant pink hue here in Bolivia. I "luckily" found some of Catherine's dirty snot tissues. We also have no moisturizer for my burnt face. Everything here is loaded with perfumes and chemicals. For relief I've had to spread lip balm all over my face. As for the flesh eating plague, well, if it doesn't go away, I love you all.
Cusco - Puno - Islas Flotantes - Isla Amantani - Isla Taquile - Puno - Yungayo (Bolivian border) - Copacabana - Isla del Sol - Copacabana - La Paz
Today we head to La Paz after a very busy and beautiful week exploring Lake Titicaca. We were pleasantly surprised at the magnitude, diversity and beauty of the lake. I half expected it to be a dumping ground of sludge and brown waters for both Peru and Bolivia. Instead the lake's crystal blue and turquoise waters shimmer in the intense sunlight at 4000m (the highest lake in the world). Adding to the color spectacle are the vivid colors of the clothing worn by the men and women of the various islands. The bright pinks, greens, yellows and reds all sit on the bright blues of the water and sky. 6000m mountain peaks on the horizon add to the visual show. On many occasions we found ourselves whiling away hours just observing the scenery and the people.
Isla del Sol in Bolivia was the definite highlight of our discovery of Lake Titicaca. Though the island is extremely peaceful, we encountered much activity during our stay. We met a large group of young Bolivianos studying to be in the tourism industry. They were very enthusiastic about their studies and we spent hours talking about culture, travel and language. Meeting them was absolutely great. The following day on our hike to the northern part of the island we took a break from the sun's harshness by resting on a secluded beach. While Catherine napped a group of about ten Boliviano kids no older than five descended upon us demanding, "Caramelos!" Although I kindly told them I had no caramelos and that I wouldn't give them any candy they encircled us and pressed on with their demands for caramelos. The leader of the Bolivian Lord of the Flies, with beady little eyes and rotten front teeth spotted a package of crackers in my day pack. He reached for them and insisted, "Give them to me. I want them!" I sternly told him not to touch my bag and to get away from us. Catherine awoke and noticed all of the kids around us. I explained their demands for caramelos and that started what has become the one woman brigade to save the teeth of Bolivia's sugar-addicted children. In her beginner Spanish she scolded all of them on their demands for candy. "Caramelos son muy malos! Son muy malos para tu dientes!" We got up and left. The Lord of the Flies ran to the other side of the beach, took off their clothes, and jumped in the lake. Latin Piggy hasn't been heard from since.
We have worked on a thorough speech to give the children. Every kid we have met since then requesting caramelos has been met with very active resistance on Catherine's part.
I'll update pics when we get to La Paz.
Happy 30th Birthday to Efrain!! We love you!!
October 5, 2007
Inca Warrior Girls March On
Machu Picchu
We made it!
The past week has been a whirlwind. It's really crazy how quickly the days pass here because a week ago we were on the Inca trail full of anxiety and exhilaration and a few hours ago we crossed the border into Bolivia.
On October 1st we embarked on our 4 day trek to Machu Picchu. We were both apprehensive about the intensity of the trek and the amount of money we paid for the "experience." 48 hours before the trek when we were to pay for our trip in crisp American bills we even considered forfeiting our $300 deposit. Nonetheless, we paid, we went on a practice hike the day before, and on October 1st we awoke at 5am for our 5:30am pick up.
The hike was intense and amazing. Catherine and I totally kicked butt. On day 2, the toughest day of hiking with an ascent from 3000m to 4200m and then back down to 3800m, Catherine and I were no. 2 and no. 3 up to Dead Woman's pass at 4200m. Alone I probably would have stopped every 10 steps but Catherine set an awesome pace for the two of us and she was a wonderful cheerleader. It felt so great to make it to the top and feel the intensity of the sun and the wind as we rested before embarking on the 400m descent to our coldest night of camp.
Day 3 was the most beautiful day of hiking with a misty jungle terrain and various Inca sites. It also brought a twisted ankle and lost glasses for Catherine; and for both of us the Gringo killer, a hot shower at camp and cold beers. I bolted down the Gringo killer - steep descending steps known to deter many a hiker - determined to be the first girl to the hot shower. I teamed up with a speedy Swiss hiker and the two of us literally ran to camp. It was totally worth it to wash 3 days dirt accumulation off of my body. A $2 shower never felt so great. The beer afterwards was even better. Catherine made it to camp shortly after without glasses and with a slight limp. She was rewarded with chocolate and a cold beer upon her arrival.
We awoke at 3:45am on Day 4 and made another mad dash to Machu Picchu. By the time we got there we were all so exhausted that even the excitement of Machu Picchu couldn't stop most of the group from napping instead of climbing up Waynu Picchu. All of the coca tea must have made me delusional because I headed up Waynu Picchu with two funny Brits from our trekking group. The uphill slog was worth it because the views from Waynu Picchu were absolutely spectacular. It was total bliss the entire morning. The trek was extremely challenging and the view of Machu Picchu was absolutely beautiful.
After Waynu Picchu I found Catherine and we enjoyed a nap together on one of the terraces of the site. A perfect siesta for a perfect day.
My hour is up. Check out our pics at http://juicycat.smugmug.com
We also visited the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca - amazing :)
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